How to Wear a Suit and Tie If You Don't Know How to Wear a Suit and Tie

Who this post is for, and what I'm not saying in it

This isn't a post for dandies or guys who are into fashion. Nothing against them.

This is for guys who, for whatever reason, don't wear a suit and tie but have the sneaking suspicion that sometimes they should. Like at Mass.

I'm not here to judge. Or to convince you to set a good example for your kids or grandkids, or maybe make a good impression on your future wife, by reverencing our Lord as He's sacrificed upon the altar for the redemption of man.

No. Whether you decide to end hundreds of years of men trying to dress in a way that honors themselves, the people around them and, at Mass anyway, God, truly present on the altar... that's your call.

Street cred

As a former management consultant, diplomat and executive who's spent a career in DC, I've had to wear a suit and tie most of my adult life. People in Washington love to look important.

I'm here to tell you that business attire is not hard or expensive. And, darn it, you'll look handsome if you just stick to some basics.

The basics

President John F. Kennedy on the White House colonnade, March 1961. Dark suit, white shirt, plain tie. Sixty-five years later, that is still all you need. (The pocket square was optional. He was the president.) National Park Service photograph, National Archives.

What follows is the absolute, most basic information. If you're starting from square one, trust me, just go basic.

Suit. Dark blue or dark grey. Not black. Wool. Not cotton or linen or polyester. Brooks Brothers and Jos. A. Bank have a variety of sizes and cuts depending on how out of shape you are. Both run big sales often enough that you should never pay full price. Just wait for one. No pinstripes. No patterns. You can wear a solid dark blue or grey suit endlessly before anyone notices it's your only suit.

Look up how a suit should fit, and take it easy on the slim-fit stuff unless you're a 140-pound J.Crew model.

Shirt. Solid white or solid light blue. Cotton. Again, no patterns or stripes. The Jos. A. Bank Traveler Collection wears like iron. Press after washing. Wear collar stays. Wear a white undershirt so your chest hair doesn't pop out. Get one that fits so you don't take out someone's eye with a flying button. Don't worry about cufflinks unless you want to.

Dress shoes. Black goes with either suit. Dark brown works too. Skip tan and anything light-colored; with a dark suit, they're all anyone will see. Leather. Go with a rounded toe, not a square toe. Keep them reasonably shined. No patent leather.

A simple cap-toe with a slit opening for the laces is timeless and versatile. Start basic. Expensive. Cheaper. Use shoe trees and a shoehorn and good shoes will last a lifetime. Don't, and they won't.

Belt. Dress belt to match your shoes.

Socks. Wear them. Over the calf. Same color as your suit, not your shoes. Don't get wacky.

Tie. Any one you want. I know where you can get some cool Catholic ones.

Watch. Any one you want.

Accessories. You don't need any. That's it. No pocket square required, and no flowers that squirt water. You're done.

From here on

From now on you can wear either color suit, swapping shirts and ties as you like. You can go anywhere and meet anyone. You can run for Senate. You can work at Macy's. You will be appropriately dressed at Mass and other special occasions for the rest of your life.

None of this costs pocket change, but you don't have to buy it all at once. Wait for the sales, go a step at a time, and you can put together something sharp for a pretty reasonable sum.

Need to prioritize your spending? Shoes. Tie. Shirt. Suit. Then maybe a wristwatch, if you're into that sort of thing.

Good luck and God bless.

Further reading: "Dressing Like a Man for Mass," by Matthew James Christoff, at The Catholic Gentleman. And from us: Can Catholics Claim the Necktie?